The Dismal Swamp and Virginia

Hello Fellow Cruisers,

Last Sunday we left Elizabeth City and entered what is called the 'Dismal Swamp.' Some may have thought it 'dismal' at one time, like those slaves who had to dig it and those who tried to travel through it in earlier times. But to us it was beautiful, natural, and calming. The Pasquotank River leads to the actual canal which starts at the South Mill Lock, and runs for 22 miles.

The water in this area looks beautiful at first, but when you look more carefully, it is the color
of dark coffee... you can see it in the pict to the left, taken off our stern. We are told it is a natural element in the water, not polution. Some people around here drink it: not us! And since our toilet system pulls the flush water in, that's what we could see in the toilet as well.

The Dismal Swamp canal was totally calm, with the perfect reflection of this bridge as we approached. Kinda hard to tell which is the bridge and which is the reflection, huh?

Midway along the canal is the Visitors Center, which is also a rest area along US Route 17.
There is a 150' pier there where boats can tie up for the night (Free!), with rafting expected. You can see that the night we were there, 9 boats rafted together in 3s: 2 power boats and 7 sail.
That means that to get to the shore you crawl across another's boat, both to use the restrooms and to walk a dog. Fortunately,, we were rafted between Shingebiss and a sailboat, so we had to only crawl across Shingebiss.












We left the Dismal with rain threatening, and traveled to the upper lock "Deep Creek", transiting with 3 other boats. Immediately we left the remote and and wild of the Dismal and entered suburbia and quickly the urban Hampton Roads area. This sign points to the Dismal Swamp route, as we turn onto the Elizabeth River.

Despite the heavy rain and fog, we are surrounded by cranes and piers and ships and tugs and barges... what a change! After waiting (with 10 other boats) for some bridges to lift, we made it to our marina in downtown Portsmouth. It was such a drenching rain that we scuttled our plans to sightsee that afternoon, and just tried to dry off and warm up. (Aside: the water color became clear as soon as we got out of the canal. )

The next day we visited the Portsmouth lightship and the museum nearby. And on Wednesday, we took the ferry below across to Norfolk, a quick trip of 15 minutes, dodging the many watercraft of all descriptions in this busy river.

This is the Norfolk skyline as we approached. On the left end is "Nauticus"... another naval museum. After several hours we felt saturated with naval history, and we really didn't do all the exhibits justice!

The battleship Wisconsin, built here in Portsmouth( note: in NH it's the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard, despite the fact that it's really located in Kittery ME. In VA, it's the Norfolk Naval Shipyard, despite the fact that it's really located in Portsmouth VA. Go figure.) It is so large that it was only able to pass through the Panama Canal with only 1' to spare on each side!

No, Nan didn't join the navy.
Jack took a try at pulling in the Wisconsin's anchor. Didn't happen!

Here's Shingebiss near a ship(r) and a drydock(l). How humbling!
We were really anxious about traveling the Chesapeake, but on the day we left Portmouth/Norfolk, winds were nearly calm and there were only slight swells. We pushed on past our friends on Shingebiss and went 77 miles to Reedville VA in order to take the ferry to Tangier Island the next day. Here's the ferry, which takes up to 150 passengers daily (seasonal) the 18 miles to Tangier Island. The ferry leaves from the marina where we tied up (and you get a free night at the dock when you take the ferry's day trip!!)

Tangier Island (VA) is really 5 small 'islands'-- well, really sand dunes barely above the water line. It was settled by people from the Cornwall area of England in the 1700s and until recently was an isolated community subsisting almost wholly on fishing and some supplies brought by the daily mailboat. Because of the long years of isolation (TV, wifi, phone service and a small airstrip only within the last 30 years, ), the distinctive English accent continues. At one time 1500 people lived there, but now there are about 500. Most young people leave as soon as they graduate from the K-12 school. And with new regulations on fishing/crabbing, the primary industry is endangered. Plus, the island(s) is eroding seriously, with the very land they live on... which is connected by bridges.. is swampy. The 'streets' are more like wide sidewalks, and transportation is by bike, scooter, or golf cart.

The folks who settled Tangier were strong Methodists, and so the church steeple is the tallest 'roof' on the island. At one time a young man was shoton his porch y the sheriff on a Sunday morning for either not attending church or being inside his house. (The sheriff went to prison.)
We have an acquaintance in Nashville who was a UM pastor and who grew up on Tangier (his 2 sisters still live there and a strong 1/3 of the population share his last name), so we were particularly interested in the church. Imagine that for an appointment!
Tangier is pretty small, so we walked the town after a golf cart 'tour' and familarization, followed by a soft-shelled crab sandwich (just don't look between the slices of bread) and ice cream. Naps seemed appropriate as we rode back on the ferry.
Buzzard's Point Marina in Reedville is small and tucked in a very quiet cove. We hear fishing boats going out on both sides of us, and a couple of summer 'liveaboards', but that's about it. Nice, with good wifi, but no cell phone service except in a couple of spots up in the field (if you hold your arm up as an antenna!). Since its supposed to rain tonight and tomo morning, we've called the local UMC and asked for a ride to worship. We think someone will show up!
How do you like the text between the picts? I'm still getting the hang of it, but am hopeful I can further improve.
Likely by Monday we'll head on up the Bay, barely touching the possibilities of unique small villages and rivers for anchoring. But we remind ourselves that we do have other places to go, and we're already making a list of places to return to.
Everywhere we go, folks comment on the Nashville area flooding when they find out our homeport. Kinda nice to know the world is watching and caring.

We're always glad to know you're traveling with us in spirit. Blessings to one and all.

nan and jack
Be safe, know God is with you, and keep in touch!